Permission for reprint is granted with attribution given to the American Association of Equine Practitioners.

Summer Heat is Here

by Linda Ann Nickerson
All winter, horse lovers dream of balmy summer days, when we can gallop across the countryside on our favorite horses. However, once those lazy and hazy summer days arrive, we must take extra precautions to keep our horses cool!

WATCH FOR HEATSTROKE

A horse's normal body temperature is 100 (F). If it rises much over that, a horse can quickly develop heatstroke. In severe cases, this can cause neurological problems or fatality. Overweight or overexerting horses are particularly prone to this.

Horses suffering from severe heatstroke may need a few weeks of rest from work, as part of the recovery process.

GUARD MARES AND FOALS CAREFULLY

Nursing mothers must be protected from heatstroke and dehydration, as they must continue healthy lactation to feed their foals adequately.

Foals are typically born in the spring and summer. Newborns are particularly at-risk for overheating on hot, humid days. Simply put, their internal thermostats are not ready to deal with drastic temperatures. Foals should not be left out in a hot sunny pasture during the peak hours of the day (10 am to 3 pm).

AVOID ANHYDROSIS

Anhydrosis is the inability to perspire. Arabians, Quarterhorses, Standardbreds, Thoroughbreds, and other racing and endurance horses may suffer from this on hot, humid days.

Working horses typically sweat profusely on hot days. As with humans, this is a natural means of self-cooling. If a horse fails to do so, this may be a sign of anhydrosis, particularly if he also seems to pant through his mouth.

If this occurs, it's time to call the veterinarian. Bathing the horse with cold water, especially around the head and neck, can provide quick relief and help reduce his body temperature.

DETER DEHYDRATION

Horses require plenty of water each day, especially in the summer months. Keeping buckets and water troughs filled with fresh water will prevent dehydration.

Test for dehydration by pinching a flap of skin on a horse's neck. If it immediately pops back into place, the horse is OK. If the flap holds for a few moments, that horse is in danger of dehydration.

LIGHTEN THE WORKLOAD

On truly oppressive hot days, a caring rider will not expect a full workout from his horse. Long warmup walks and even longer cool-outs will bracket an abbreviated work session. Following up with a cool hose-down and hand-walk are extra important!

PROVIDE SALT AND MINERALS

Sodium, electrolytes, and key minerals are essential to the health of active horses. Install a salt or mineral lick in each horse's stall. Offer mineral tubs in the pastures. These will provide important nutrients and also encourages horses to drink greater quantities of water.

PROTECT AGAINST FLIES AND PESTS

Lightweight, breathable flysheets may deter insects from biting your horse. At the same time, these may cool the horse from the sun. Select open-weave mesh fabrics, rather than tightly woven textiles, which can become dangerously hot.

Flysprays can help to keep flies off your horse, so he does not have to overexert on a hot day, just to keep the bugs away!

PROVIDE SHADE IN PASTURES

If pastures do not include shady areas, consider adding an open lean-to or run-in shelter. Horses may not use it often, but there may be occasions when they need to get out of the sunlight or elements.

KEEP STALLS CLEAN AND VENTILATED

If your horse is stabled, be sure to provide adequate air circulation. Open windows and barn doors. Remove soiled bedding, as this creates pungent fumes in the heat.

Adding a box fan to the stall bars can greatly improve ventilation and cool down the stall. (Be sure to unplug all fans before leaving the barn for the night, to avoid potential fire hazards.)

Weaning And Halter Breaking Your Foal

By Tina Lewis, MyEquineNetwork.com Contributing Writer

That time of year is here, once again, when we need to think about halter breaking the foal we waited nearly a year for. My Grandfather used to say, “there is more than one way to skin a cat,” so here is my take on having a smooth weaning and halter breaking experience.

Starting the halter breaking process before weaning is optimal, of course. One of the biggest reasons is that you can use the mare to get a halter on your foal for the first time by blocking the foal against the mare when it is young. Leading them to a smaller pen first, is helpful. With your left arm under his neck at his chest, use your right hand to grasp his tail at the dock as close to his buttocks as you can get. Lift it up in the air, firmly. We call this the “brake.” Once you have the foal in this position, keep him close to mom and he will usually remain fairly quiet while you have your helper put a halter on him. Make sure you are moving very quietly and slowly so he doesn't think you are going to hurt him. Doing this once or twice a day will get him used to being haltered, and he will be voluntarily sticking his nose into the halter before you know it. Use the mare while you can. If your mare is "nasty" you may want to wait to do the halter breaking until after weaning and wean a bit earlier. Once haltered, it is usually easiest to have a helper lead the mare while you "pretend" to lead your foal. He will actually be following his mom but getting the idea of leading and following you and getting used to the halter and the process of putting it on and off. Practice stops and starts using the voice commands "walk" and "whoa," but always let the foal go to his mom and stay near to her if he wants to. Make sure to have your helper stop and start the mare along with the foal if you want to be successful. He will not want to stop if his mom is continuing to walk away. The best time to play with your foal and get him used to you is while he feels safe next to his mom.

Ideally, a foal should be 4-6 months old and should be left in the pen, paddock or pasture that he has been used to and feels most comfortable in when the time comes to wean. It is best to leave the foal in familiar surroundings by pulling the mare out and leaving the foal behind instead of the other way around. A baby-sitter mare or gelding, preferably one that has been a pasture mate since birth, should be left with the foal or foals when the mare is removed. This leaves the foal with an adult horse he knows and trusts that will help protect and guide him. This first step to weaning your foal can make a potentially stressful day much less so. I try to never just remove a foal from its mother and leave it alone somewhere in a pen all alone. A little preparation can make all the difference in the world to the foal's level of stress on weaning day, as well as the stress of the mare and her owner.

Begin weaning by haltering up the mare or mares one at a time, “peeling” off her foal by leading the mare out of the gate and quickly turning her in the opposite direction of the gate opening. The foal will usually try to follow mom down the fence line rather than go out the gate behind her. The pasture or paddock must be sturdy and safe, as the foal will try to get to the mare. If your mare and foal have been kept in a smaller pen, rather than a pasture, you will want to have a buddy in a pen next to them for a while before weaning so your foal can become familiar to him or her by the time weaning day arrives. This will lessen the stress on the foal when mom is removed. I also suggest putting out some type of grain or foal feed, and free choice hay to take the foal’s mind off mom. This sometimes works to your advantage as the foal may get so busy eating he doesn't notice right away that you have taken mom away and wont be trying to push his way out of the gate behind her. Having more than one mare and foal to wean is helpful too as the foals comfort each other.

Move the mare, or mares, one at a time to the new pen or pasture preferably somewhere out of sight, and earshot so the mare and foal cannot see or hear each other. Second best would be out of sight, even if they can still hear each other's cries. If space is limited, you can just put a pen or pasture between them. Putting them in a pen or pasture right next to each other will allow nursing through the fence as well as create a much greater potential for injury. The mare and foal must be in safe and secure pens with strong and safe fencing. They will try to get to each other. Utilizing a friend's house works well in a pinch as they need only be out of eye and earshot for a few weeks to accomplish weaning.

Once the mare and foal are secure, they will cry for each other for a day or so. Try to keep both mare and foal comforted with extra hay and grain and lots of fresh water. Pacing and crying are normal and will subside. After the foal settles down, continue to feed a good quality grain designed for foals according to the directions on the bag of feed or your Veterinarians advice. It is important to feed grain in addition to hay for the first 2 years of life as they are growing at such a rapid rate during this time.

In the days following weaning, you should try to get the foal haltered up, led around, feet picked up, groomed, fly sprayed, bathed and de-wormed. Ask your Veterinarian which de-worming medication is right for your foal and meets the needs of your area and time of year you are weaning. You can also get an estimate from your veterinarian of the weight of your foal if you don’t own a weight tape. Weight tapes are usually available at your local feed store and are relatively inexpensive and a useful tool in making sure you don’t over (or under) dose your horses. Your veterinarian can also advise you on what to vaccinate your foal with and when is the best time to vaccinate for your area. We vaccinate and de-worm our mares just before foaling so as to give the foal antibodies in the colostrum when they are born, and then vaccinate our foals sometime between 6 and 9 months of age after they are weaned.

Once we have accomplished weaning we need to begin halter breaking with lots of touching and patting. Start out by approaching the foal down low at first, at eye level so as not to intimidate. Get down on one knee. Let the foal come to you. If the foal has not been handled at all, our first goal is to gain his trust so we can get a halter on and off with ease. You may need some help the first few times and a very small pen to corner him in so you can get the halter on. Remember to move slowly. A catch pen made from panels in the corner of a paddock or pasture works well using some grain and hay as bait to get the foal in it.

Once you have gotten the halter on, make it a pleasant experience so that each time is easier. Never leave a halter on a foal in a pasture or pen. The risk of it catching on something and causing serious injury or even death is far too great. It may be a little trouble to try to get it back on again but a foal learns quickly and, after all, that is what we are trying to teach them - to allow the halter to be put on and taken off. If you leave it on you are not teaching him anything. Besides, the trouble is well worth his life.

Once you have your foal haltering easily you should be leading him (or trying to) around your property beginning with a few baby steps. You may use a butt rope for a little impulsion from behind if you do not have a helper to keep him moving. Use a soft cotton lead, a non-slip knot and make a good sized loop that sits just on top of the hocks, over the buttocks at the point of the croup with the lead following along his back, down at the withers and then going under the throatlatch, through the halter under his chin and out along the lead rope that is attached to his halter. Use both the lead rope and the butt rope lead together allowing pressure from the front and the rear of the foal at the same time until the foal learns to give to the pressure from the front. You can then use just the lead rope attached to his halter and not the butt rope lead and remove it when you don't feel you need it any longer. Foals learn very quickly so this may only take a few minutes or it might take a couple of sessions.

Reward even a small step or two with a good boy and a pat. Use small, easy taps and don’t ever just pull on a weanling’s head. Not quick taps, but a firm, pull and release, pull and release. There should be a series of pulls and releases to encourage the foal to step toward you. Use the voice command, "walk". You may sometimes have to “unstick” those front feet by tapping to one side or the other instead of directly forward. If he takes one step either way you should stop and reward that by releasing the pressure (the taps) and patting and a saying, “good boy”. Not pulling in a steady pressure on the weanling’s head is one of the most important things to remember. Pulling causes the weanling to fight and try to find some sort of release from the pressure. He may begin to rear up. If he starts to rear and is about to flip over, use sharp taps and quick releases, not hard pulls, remembering to keep the head from hitting the ground (or anything else). Sometimes you cannot avoid the foal flipping over but keeping his head protected is first and foremost at that point. You can do this by keeping enough pressure (or putting it on) at the moment when it may hit the ground or any other obstacle with a sharp pull. Remaining calm and cool headed is very important because the weanling isn't going to be.

Keep training sessions short as his attention span is short and you want to keep it fun for him. Start with about five or ten minutes and increase that as he grows and learns. End each session on a good note. Unfasten, release the halter and walk away from him. Don't wait for him to run away from you or try to reach out and pet him (usually unsuccessfully) one last time. You must remain in control and keep his interest and his respect.

A broke, gentle and calm horse starts with good, solid groundwork. There is so much groundwork to be done before you toss that saddle on. Groundwork will prepare him for that day and for the day you take that first ride - which will be here before you know it.

Severe Weather Safety Tips

I know that we don't want to think about this possibility, however, here are a few tips from Ridecamp Archives that might help you out in a bad weather situation.
If a tornado is approaching your area what can you do to protect yourself and your horse? Get off and get low. Get in a ditch, culvert, behind a large fallen log, If you can detect the path of the tornado and you are in an open area; try to travel perpendicular to its path.
Hail can panic a horse. Get off!
Lightning: avoid being in open area. Thickly wooded trails are safer as long as you are not on top of a hill. Avoid hilltops in open meadows. Don't take shelter under a lone tree.
If you are caught in the open by a rapidly approaching lightning storm; get off, tie the horse if you can, but get away from your horse. You can get low; the horse can't. If you are holding the reins and the horse is struck by lightning the lightning can be conducted to you.

IS BAREFOOT BETTER???

BY JENNIFER FORSBERG MEYER

A growing contingent of hoof-care experts says yes. Here’s
what the natural-foot movement could mean for your horse.

THE BAREFOOT OPTION. YOU’VE HEARD OF IT, BUT YOU KNOW IT’S NOT
for your horse, because (pick one or more):
• it’s a fad.
• he has bad feet.
• you ride on rugged ground.
• you show.
You agree that going barefoot is healthy for a hoof, and that pulling a horse’s shoes
at least once a year to reestablish natural hoof growth is a good thing. But eventually
those shoes must go back on, right? Permanent barefootedness is appropriate only
for certain horses who already have tough, resilient hooves.
Right?
Four months ago, I’d have agreed with you on all of the above. But now I’m not
so sure. By researching this article, I’ve learned amazing things about how a horse’s
hoof is designed to function. As a result, I’m beginning to understand why a growing
number of natural hoof-care experts say barefoot is not just for horses with
already-excellent hooves.
In fact, judging by the evidence, the opposite may be true. Going barefoot (as the
result of a correct trim and combined with compatible living conditions) may be the
way to make bad hooves better, and even excellent. It may also create hooves capable
of supporting a horse—with rider—over most types of terrain.And (this is the most
intriguing part) it may enhance a horse’s overall health, comfort, and longevity.
What I learned, in fact, prompted me to consider the barefoot lifestyle for my own
horses, who live and are sometimes ridden on hard, rocky ground.
In this article, I’ll explain what I found so compelling. I’ll tell how the barefoot movement
began, share the thinking of some of its most prominent advocates, and detail
what’s necessary to make the barefoot option work. I’ll also discuss an alternative
approach that applies natural-foot principles to a nontraditional shoe.
In short, I’ll give you the tools you need to decide if new-age foot care is something you want to pursue for your own horse.

AS NATURE INTENDED
The foundation for a natural approach to hoof care was laid
20 years ago primarily by the work of two farriers. Jaime Jackson
and Gene Ovnicek independently conducted field
research among feral mustangs in the mid-1980s. Each hoped
to see what the hooves and habits of horses in the wild might
tell us about foot care for the domestic horse.
Both were astonished at the hardiness and resilience of the
feet they saw.Without metal shoes to restrict elasticity and
contact with the ground, the mustangs’ feet remained tough
and healthy even traveling at speed over the roughest ground.
Lameness was rare, and usually accident-related rather than
caused by disease of the hoof itself.
The mustangs’ feet were heavily callused across the toe.
Ovnicek’s research showed that, contrary to popular belief,
the hoof wall is not the primary weight-bearing surface.
Rather, the load is shared among the sole, bars, frog, and wall.
“Intuitively, it always seemed to make sense that the hoof
wall is the weight-bearer,” says Ovnicek today.“And that belief
kept us stuck in old modes of shoeing.”
In the 20 years since the first feral-horse research, interest
in natural methods of increasing the hoof health of domestic
horses has blossomed around the world. Jackson has gone
on to write several books related to the topic (see “To Learn
More,”on page 57).He also helped create the American Association
of Natural Hoof Care Practitioners, which promotes
research and trains/certifies professionals.
Ovnicek, who still supports the ideal of “barefoot where
possible,” has gone on to develop an innovative shoe that takes
the natural functioning of the equine foot into account.  He also lectures and
provides clinics around the world on what he calls the “natural
balance” of the equine foot.
Veterinarians, research centers, and universities are increasingly
taking notice of the natural hoof ’s powers to prevent
and in many cases cure diseases like laminitis and navicular.
Moreover, word of mouth among horse owners is building
demand for more information on natural hoof care and access
to practitioners.
Just before I began work on this article, I heard an enthusiastic
endorsement of the barefoot trim from my neighbor,
who’s pleased with the results she’s getting with her laminitic
gelding.That caused me to wonder: Just how does it all work?

THE UNDERLYING SCIENCE
Robert Bowker,VMD, PhD is a leading researcher in the natural
function of the equine foot. A neurobiologist who teaches
anatomy at Michigan State University, he became interested in foot function about 10 or 12 years ago, when students
asked him about the correct placement of nerve blocks. The
anatomy texts he checked were incorrect, so he began examining
the equine foot himself.
His research extended from the nerves of the foot to the
blood vessels, cartilage, and bones, and more recently to the
hooves and their laminae in health and disease.He supplemented
his lab work with observations of free-roaming feral horses.
What he found added momentum to the barefoot movement.
He discovered that the blood in horses’ feet does much
more than provide nutrients to hoof tissues. It also enables
the unshod foot to function as a hydraulic system, in much
the same way that gel-filled athletic shoes do.
“Moving liquids are the best way to dissipate energy,” Bowker
said in 1999,when his research was first publicized.“That’s
why some of the major running shoe manufacturers market
products that contain liquids in their soles.”
Bowker also discovered, however, that the blood isn’t forced
out of the foot upon impact, with the digital cushion—the
thick pad of elastic fiber at the heel—absorbing most of the
concussion, as was previously thought. Rather, as the
hoof expands upon landing, it creates a vacuum that sucks
blood from beneath the coffin bone into the rear portion of
the hoof. “As the blood moves through microvessels in the hoof cartilage,
it dissipates the energy caused by the impact on the
ground,” he explained at the time. “We need to be trimming
hooves so that more of the back part of the foot—including
the frog—bears the initial ground impact forces and weight.”
The problem, of course, is that traditional metal shoes not
only limit the expansion and contraction of the hoof, they
also raise the frog and heel off the ground. Bowker says today
that the difference between wearing shoes and going barefoot
is like the difference between working in high heels and wearing
sneakers.
“Horseshoes provide a much smaller surface area to absorb shock,” explains the researcher,whose own wife’s horse is now
happily barefoot.“So if a bare hoof landing after a jump experiences,
say, 1,000 pounds of loading per square foot, then
with a traditional shoe, there’s going to be 2,000 pounds per
square foot.”
The consequences of this are significant.With their natural
function compromised, key hoof structures become weak
through lack of use, thus more vulnerable to navicular syndrome
and other lamenesses. And, with the shock-absorbing
ability of the foot limited, the concussion travels up the horse’s
leg, stressing bones and joints.
It’s this latter phenomenon of how the wearing of shoes
affects the rest of the horse’s body that initially grabbed the
attention of yet another barefoot advocate, farrier Pete Ramey.

BAREFOOT IN ACTION
Now an instructor and clinician for the AANHCP and one
of the world’s most experienced natural hoof-care practitioners,
Ramey first learned about the potential advantages of barefootedness
in 1998. Intrigued, he pulled the shoes from his
own string of about 20 rental horses and was “blown away”
by what he saw.
“These were geriatric geldings, many over 30, averaging 20
miles a day over rocks,” he recalls. “Once their feet made the
transition, they functioned beautifully over that terrain. But
what really got me was how the geldings’ endurance increased,
and their ‘creaks and groans’ diminished. I began to have fewer
of them on the ‘injured reserve list.’”
Ramey points to the findings of Bowker’s research to explain
what was happening.
“Because the bare foot is such an effective blood pump, the
horse’s heart doesn’t have to work as hard. Endurance riders
have known this for a while—it’s why many of them use boots
instead of shoes: Their horses recover faster.” 

Then, too, there’s that superior cushioning of the bare foot,
which spares a horse’s joints, ligaments, and other tissues.
“It’s like the difference between a steel wheel and a rubber
tire,” he notes. “People assume it’s normal for horses to have
joint or back problems as they age, but it may be many of these
aches are caused by the increased stresses of wearing shoes.”
Ramey strongly disagrees with those who say shoes are necessary
because we’ve “bred the foot off ” the modern horse.
“It’s just not true. Unless there’s a bone pathology, virtually
any horse can grow a healthy foot, given time and proper
trimming.”
Although the exact specifications of that trim are still
evolving, most natural-foot practitioners agree that the
result should enable the sole, the bars, the frog, and the walls
to share the load. Only exfoliating material should be
trimmed from the sole and frog, allowing thick calluses to
develop over these structures. The outer hoof wall is best
beveled to minimize flaring and separation. Sometimes
called a “mustang roll,” this beveling mimics the wear pattern
on feral horses’ feet. (Note: The experts I spoke with
for this article agreed that the Strasser trim, developed by
German veterinarian Hiltrud Strasser, is invasive and
should be avoided.)
To ease the transition from shod to barefoot, Ramey and
other practitioners recommend hoof boots, often helping
their clients select and fit them. Because of the increasing
demand for boots from owners of barefoot horses, a wealth
of styles and models is now appearing on the market.
“Boots provide protection while a horse’s hoof is remodeling
and becoming tougher,” says Ramey. “They’re the 21st
century ‘shoe,’protecting a foot as well as the ‘old school’metal
shoe, only supporting hoof health rather than degrading it.
Over time, as the feet develop their natural resilience, the
boots are no longer necessary for most riding.”

NATURAL FOOT, NATURAL HORSE
Most natural hoof care practitioners agree that a barefoot trim
works best on a horse living a more natural lifestyle, including
as much turnout as feasible. Ideally, the horse should live
on the same type of ground he’ll be ridden on. For example,
if you ordinarily ride a lot on rough trails, your barefoot
horse is best turned out on terrain that includes rocks and
hard footing.
“It’s something the AANHCP and the barefoot movement
in general are working towards now,” says Mark Jeldness, a
field instructor for the association. “We want to help owners
find ways to create the right kind of environment for their
horses, and to encourage their horses to move around on it
as much as possible.”
For owners who can’t provide enough turnout, keeping the
horse well exercised under saddle during the transition period
is critical. Boots make this possible, as well as frequent
trims (every four to six weeks) that encourage the foot to
remodel properly.
In that this approach to foot care fits within the natural-isbetter
movement at large, it’s not surprising that natural horsemanship
clinicians are embracing the no-shoes option more
readily than are mainstream trainers. John Lyons hasn’t shod his

horses in 10 years, but he believes owners must use common
sense when considering what to do with their own horses.
“You don’t need shoes just because you ride a horse, and
leaving shoes off is ideal for forming a healthier, stronger
foot,” he maintains. “I put gravel in my pastures where the
horses walk to help toughen their feet. But you have to use
common sense, too. If I were roping all the time in a sand
arena, I’d probably use shoes.”
Clinton Anderson quit using traditional shoeing a year and
a half ago, and now puts hind shoes only on his reiners.
“You do need the shoes in back to be able to slide,” he says.
“But other than that,with the right trimming, there’s no reason
to shoe. The feet don’t change overnight—I’ve found it
takes anywhere from six months to a year for them to fully
make the transition—but when they do, they get hard and
strong and tough enough for most any kind of riding.”
Of course, not everyone agrees this is so, and there are
any number of traditional farriers and longtime horsemen
who’ll tell you the “barefoot thing” is misguided, plain and
simple. But one undeniable strength of the natural hoof care
movement is its emphasis on maximizing the health potential
of every foot.
“The key difference between traditional farrier care and
the barefoot approach is that we’re zoomed in on figuring out
how to make all horses grow good feet,” says Ramey. “A vet I
work with told me recently he used to look at a horse with
bad hooves and say, ‘Wow—that horse has awful feet.’ Now
he says, ‘Wow—that horse could have good feet if we do this
and this and this.’ It’s a significant difference.”
For my part, I’m impressed enough with the underlying
science and the case histories to give barefoot a try. My
horses received a natural trim from an AANHCP-certified
practitioner last December, and are spending several months
turned out in an area with varied terrain.When my daughter
and I resume riding,we’ll use boots if necessary until their
feet are sufficiently remodeled.
At the end of the transition period, the worst-case scenario
is that our horses will have much healthier hooves on which
to nail shoes. And if they wind up happy without their shoes, even better.

Not so Fun in the Sun: Equine Summer Skin Diseases
By T.A. Banner DVM

Summer sun and humidity can increase the risk of three common skin conditions;
know how to prevent them and identify the warning signs.


It's that time of year again when all the flies, mosquitoes and gnats decide to turn your quiet evenings into a swatfest and send you running for the house. Unfortunately for your horse, living in the great outdoors can mean dealing with environmental and insect issues 24 hours a day in the humid Southeastern climate. Horses are at increased risk for skin conditions in the summer season. Probably the biggest take home message I can give you is to start the appropriate treatment as recommended by your veterinarian as soon as a skin condition starts. Don't wait until the condition has worsened to the point of hair loss, skin lesions and your horse has knocked over half the fence posts in the paddock trying to scratch. Photosensitization, rain rot (dermatophilosis), and equine insect hypersensitivity are three common skin diseases. It is important to know the clinical signs and causes of each.

Photosensitization

Increasing day length brings increasing time under the hot sun. Photosensitization is a common problem in horses with pink or non-pigmented skin that is overexposed to sunlight. The most common areas affected are the face, nose and ears. In the summer, the intense rays of the sun will cause the skin to burn and cause peeling of the outer layers of epidermis. The skin is characterized by redness, localized swelling, sensitivity to the touch and could have weeping of serum. Photosensitization is believed to be caused by phylloerythrin, which is a normal breakdown product of chlorophyll in plants. The horse's liver is responsible for excreting phylloerythrin and any other plant chemicals that may ultimately damage the skin. Certain plants, such as ragwort, St. John's wort and buckwheat, contain chemicals that can damage the horse's liver. This will cause the skin to be more susceptible to ultraviolet rays from the sun.


Some medications, such as tetracylines, can make horses photosensitive. A pink-skinned horse in strong sun is likely to suffer from sunburn; but if that horse were being treated with photosensitizing medications, it could suffer from a more severe sunburn. There is a correlation between sunburn and liver damage with some systemic diseases involving the liver making horses more photosensitive. The best solution is to limit the skin's exposure to direct sunlight but sometimes that is not possible. The use of sun protection products is often necessary to keep the harmful rays from burning sensitive areas. Many of today's grooming products such as shampoos, fly sprays and coat conditioners may contain sunscreens, and the protection provided by a sun block such as zinc oxide is helpful. One of the problems is keeping it on the horse because grazing and horseplay can wipe the product from horse's face. The colored sun blocks may aid in determining when it is time to reapply the product when viewing from a distance.

Dermatophilosis

Dermatophilosis, "rain rot," "rain scald" or "streptothricosis" is a skin disease usually noted in prolonged wet conditions where high temperature and high humidity are present. Skin lesions usually appear as crust-like scabs or small 1/4 inch matted tufts of hair over the rump and back, but can affect much of the body. When rain rot appears on the lower limbs it is most commonly referred to as "dew poisoning."

The organism, dermatophilus congolensis, which causes rain rot, is not a fungus. It is an actinomycete which has the characteristics of both bacteria and fungi. It enters the follicle of the hair shaft and initially causes small lumps on the skin or hair when running your hand over your horse's coat. There are usually dozens of tiny scabs that contain embedded hair and can be pulled or rubbed off. Underneath the scabs, the skin is usually pink with yellowish pus at the skin surface. The organism damages the root and causes the entire hair shaft to lift out in small clumps leaving the area hairless.


Dermatophilosis, also known as rain rot, rain scald or streptothricosis is common in the Southeast due to increased humidity and high temperatures combined with rainfall. Photo courtesey of T.A. Banner, DVM.

The affected areas are often quite sensitive and saddles and other tack must be carefully used. Since the area becomes hairless then sun blocking products should be used to prevent sunburn. The organism can be spread through sharing of equipment between horses. This includes saddle pads, blankets, leg wraps, brushes, halters, etc. It is extremely difficult to prevent the spread of rain rot, since a horse can pass it to another horse by simply rubbing its skin on any object that the other horse may touch.

The best prevention for rain rot is to use a disinfectant on any equipment shared between horses after each use. Dermatophilus congolensis grows better with a lack of oxygen. Therefore, if your horse has a long, thick hair coat, it will be necessary to body clip the horse and remove any scabs that hold the organism to the horse's skin. It is not a good idea to use ointments on rain rot, because they hold moisture to the skin (and moisture needs to be removed for the condition to cease). The best treatment is to wash the horse with antimicrobial and antibacterial shampoos and rinses.
The horse's back, rump, fetlock and the front of the cannon bone are the areas most commonly affected by dermatophilosis. Photo by Jill Haight.

Culicoides Insect Hypersensitivity

Culicoides Insect Hypersensitivity (CIH) is known by many different names throughout the world (Sweet Itch, summer eczema, Summer Seasonal Recurrent Dermatitis (SSRD), Queensland Itch in Australia, Kasen in Japan and elsewhere as dhobie itch), the symptoms are the same.

Culicoides Insect Hypersensitivity is a condition that affects the quality of life of thousands of horses. CIH is an allergic skin disease affecting susceptible horses and ponies that become hypersensitive to the bites of the insect of the genus Culicoides. The tiny insects are commonly known as "biting midges," "punkies," or "no-see-ums" and are primarily active between March and October, during the early morning and the evening. Some sources report 120 or even 800 different Culicoides species. Culicoides are very small and can pass through conventional mosquito netting. They breed in aquatic habitats, decaying vegetation, manure or water troughs.

They feed on the horse at specific sites, usually around the tail head, under the mane, and underneath the horse's abdomen. The allergic reaction, caused by the saliva, develops at the site of feeding and the majority of affected horses show skin lesions affecting the mane, tail, face and ventral midline. The problem is characterized by intense itching (pruritus), which results in rubbing and considerable self-trauma, sometimes with secondary infection. Affected animals are itchy, causing intense rubbing and scratching on any available surface. Prolonged rubbing results in crusting, scaling, skin thickening, hair loss and damage to the skin. Mane and tail hairs may be broken and irregular due to repeated trauma.

The symptoms are yellowish spots approx. 50 - 150 millimeters in size, in many cases scratched open by the animals until bleeding occurs. Crusts are formed, the mane and tail hair being scratched and/or bitten away. In the crest, hardened spots can appear and burst open which give it a saw-like appearance. In the face, the hair sometimes is scratched away and the black skin underneath becomes visible.

CIH is not contagious but other, healthy animals in the herd might be affected as well because a horse with CIH will scratch harder into the withers of a healthy animal due to his own strong itch sensation and will in this way do some damage to the other's skin and hair. History and clinical cases among related horses give significant evidence of a hereditary factor. It usually affects younger horses but horses have been known to begin clinical signs in their 20's.

Control of the condition is often difficult, with the primary efforts directed at preventing affected horses and ponies from being bitten, and symptomatic treatment to control the irritating effects of the allergy. Your veterinarian may also be able to do a blood test to evaluate for CIH as well as other insect and environmental allergies.

As you can see there are many potential skin diseases in the horse and several more that were not discussed in this article. Living in a Southern tropical climate exposes our horses to continuous challenges from insects and environmental concerns. Remember to watch for early warning signs of any changes in the skin of your horse, and when noted, treat accordingly. It is also a good precaution when buying horses in the winter to ask about skin problems that could have been a problem the previous summer. You can assume that a problem last year will most likely be a problem this year.

The areas of the horse that are most affected by CIH are the tail and mane but the ears, poll, face, chest and ventral abdomen may also be involved.


CIH Prevention Tips
1) Spray and wipe down horse with insect repellents, especially in the early morning and late afternoon.

2) Install a fan or be sure that your stall has plenty of airflow since the small culicoides are not strong fliers.

3) Keep affected horses stalled in the barn from 6pm to 8am to reduce exposure as culicoides are most active at dusk and dawn.

4) Enclose the stall with a fine screen to prevent the entrance of the insects into the area.

5) Cover affected horses with a "fly sheet" and "fly mask" to prevent new bites.

Don't confuse Gnats with Biting Midges

Chironomid Midges
Richard M. Houseman
Urban Entomology Extension Specialist
Chironomid midges (gnats) are small flies that range in size from 1/16 to 1/2 inch long. They range in color from light tan to light green to nearly black, depending on the species. Midges can be confused with mosquitoes, which are similar in size, appearance and habitat; however, midges are distinctly different from mosquitoes in their feeding habits. Mosquitoes possess a long, beaklike mouthpart that is used to suck blood, whereas most midges do not even feed as adults and never take a blood meal. In addition, midges typically have “fuzzy” antenna, a characteristic found, to a lesser extent, only in male mosquitoes.

Large numbers of adult midges emerge at sundown, gather in swarms and produce a humming sound that can be heard several feet away. Adult midges are attracted to lights, which is the reason they are often found near human structures. When abundant, they are capable of completely covering areas of the home and other objects near lights. Several different species live and develop in a single body of water, and most of these species produce more than one generation per year. In some locations, the result can be almost nightly swarms, one after another, throughout the summer months. Some midge species are small enough to go through ordinary window screens and infest indoor areas.


Biting midge

(actual size approximately 1.5 millimeter).


Biting midges, also called punkies or no-see-ums, are tiny (about 1.5 mm long) flies of the family Ceratopogonidae (Figure 3). They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and attack almost any warm-blooded animal in search of a blood meal.

The bites of most species cause an immediate sharp pain. This is followed by the development of red areas. For most people these lesions last up to a week or more and are more painful than mosquito bites.

The larval stage of biting midges is wormlike and develops in standing water, wet soil, or wet organic matter. It takes about a month to complete development from egg to adult. Because of the aquatic or semiaquatic habitat of the larvae, adults are more likely to be a biting problem in areas near wet environments. Most biting activity takes place at twilight. Only the female midge is a blood feeder; the male feeds on plant juices.

Control
Effective control is difficult. Whenever possible, eliminate the wet conditions of the larval habitat. Area fogging and spraying offers little control and only brief relief. The best protection is the use of an insect repellent containing the active ingredient diethyl toluamide (DEET).

  Homemade Fly Spray Recipes

These home made fly spray recipes are gathered from around the web. Please research and use your own judgment and always check with your vet when in doubt.  I personally have not yet tried any of these so let me know if you have any sucess with them.

Special note: Whenever a fly spray recipe calls for citronella, you should use 100 percent pure citronella oil. It is a plant based product. You should not use citronella oil that is sold for an outdoor torch. That type of oil is petroleum based with a citronella smell. You can buy pure citronella oil at Cedar Vale online. Cedar Vale also has the other essential oils listed in the fly spray recipes below.

I used a variation of the fly sprays:
6 caps full of Skin so Soft
1 cup white vinegar
just a good squirt of Ivory liquid soap
filled a 32 oz Bronco Spray bottle with water
Sprayed it on the horses legs, Flies fell DEAD !!! 

Reminder - Consult your vet and use at your own risk.

1 cup vinegar
1 cup baby oil
1/4 cup original pinesol
1 tbs dish soap
1 tbs skin so soft
1 cup water

Reminder - Consult your vet and use at your own risk.

I used a mixture of half Pinesol and half water.I used it all year last year and it worked wonderful. My horses were never bothered with flies or knats and their coats were shiney.

4 oz Skin So Soft
1 oz citronella oil
12 oz vinegar
12 oz water

Mix all together and it lasts as long as any of the expensive ones do and smells a ton better! It is also good for their coat.

U.S. Forest Service Bug Spray Recipe

1 cup water
1 cup Avon Skin So Soft Bath Oil
2 cups vinegar
1 tbs. Eucalyptus oil (found in health food stores)
Optional: few tablespoons of citronella oil.

Shake spray bottle well before spraying on horse, human or dog!

BEST FLY REPELLANT -

submitted by Brianne

Made by Shaklee (remember them?)- BASIC H. It works. You can use it to spray areas where flies breed or congregate, once they have been misted, they can’t fly anymore and die. They hate it, and will not bother or bite horses who have been sprayed with it. You can make a diluted spray with 5-7 parts water and one part basic H . You can adjust the mixture to suit your area, but trust me, that concentration is plenty strong. You can also use to bathe your horses, yourself and your tack too. PH is in the range of human and horse skin, so it is great for sensitive skinned horses and people. No yucky smell either. Try it once and you will NEVER buy another fly repellent .

You can purchase off the Shaklee website, or from a member or distributor. The price is great too. Buy a gallon and imagine how far it goes- makes about 7 gallons of fly spray and will cost you about 30$. Great price, great product. I began using it at the stables where I board, and the whole stable was using it within the month, and continues to use it even after I brought my horses home.

Citrus Insect Repellant Spray
2 cups light mineral oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 tsp. citronella oil
2 tsp. eucalyptus essential oil
2 tsp. lemon dish soap

Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle. Label. To use gently shake and spray on your horse avoiding his eyes. NOTE: Do not use this spray before a show as it attracts dust.

Quick Fly Spray
18 oz white vinegar
2 Tbsp dish washing soap.
Mix in a 20 oz spray bottle and shake gently until well blended. You may add water to dilute. Spray liberally on your horse

Avon Skin So Soft
Mix 3 parts water to 1 part Avon's skin-so-soft in a spray bottle.
Spray liberally on your horse. This also softens his coat.

I have used this mix for years, and it works great. Laurie LaSalle, Rockin' Tree Ranch

Fly Repellent

2 cups white vinegar
1 cup Avon Skin So Soft (Bath oil)
1 cup water
1 tablespoon eucalyptus oil

Fly Control

An easy do it yourself fly spray that is relatively inexpensive, and I'm
told it really works! This spray attracts dust. So don't use it before
a show.

500m. (2 cups) light mineral oil
125ml (1/2 cup) lemon juice
10ml (2 tsp.) citronella oil
10ml eucalyptus oil
10ml lemon dish detergent
optional 125ml glycerin
Mix in a spray bottle and spray away!

Horse Insect Repellent Mix

1 oz. Citronella Oil
2 oz. Skin-So-Soft or Coat-So-Soft
1 Cup Cider Vinegar
1 cup Water

Mix in a 20 oz. spray bottle.

Internal Fly Repellant

If your horse is allergic to fly bites, try 1/4 cup of apple cider
vinegar on their grain once a day. This raises the blood acid level
just enough to bother the flies, but it is completely healthy for the
horse. It takes about one week to start seeing the effects. Several
old timers have told me that they always put vinegar in their horse's
drinking water during the summer to repel flies and mosquitoes.

Easy Fly Spray

You can mix seven parts water with one part citronella as a fly spray. It's not oily either. Mix it four parts water to one part citronella during the worst of the fly season.

You can take a bottle and fill it with white vinegar and two tablespoons of dish soap. Add water if you wish to dilute it a little. Shake and spray it on for a nice and very cheap fly spray. Debbi Delva

A golf course near my home passes out Bounce fabric softener sheets to the golfers to repel insects. Next time you go riding tie one to your Horse's headstall and stick one in your back pocket. It works better than ANY fly spray I've ever tried. The flies won't even fly around you. Susan Cafouras

I was given this recipe and it does work!!!!

15 oz water
5 oz commercial fly spray ( any brand)
5 oz vinegar
2 oz vegetable oil
2 oz green Dawn dish soap

Mix and use. All natural and will not harm coat.
The Hise Family

Visit Stony Mountain Botanicals where you will find recipes for herbal insect repellents!

One Ingredient Fly Spray

Pour six caps full of Skin-So-Soft in a 20 ounce spray bottle, and fill the rest with water. Shake and spray. Sien Creytens

Fly relief

If anyone has problems with flies in the barn, try filling a quart jar with this mixture.

3 cups of water
¼ (one quarter) cup sugar
¼ (one quarter) cup white vinegar

Mix, punch holes in the lid, and set it where needed. It works great. Toni Auen

For cheap fly repellent, mix about 1 1/2 cups of plain white vinegar into about every 75 gallons of water in your horse's water tub. If you use this it in the water about a week before flies start biting, it will have circulated in your horse and it helps keep flies from biting. -Lindsey

Euthanasia...What makes the grief process so complicated?

Sorrow and grief are normal, natural responses to death

The stages of grief
There are many stages of grief, and not everyone experiences them all or in the same order. You may experience denial, anger, guilt, depression, and acceptance and resolution. Your first reaction may be denial—denial that your horse has died or that death is imminent. Denial may begin when you first learn the seriousness of your horse’s illness or injuries. Often, the more sudden the death, the more difficult the loss is to accept.

Anger and guilt often follow denial. Your anger may be directed toward people you normally love and respect, including your family and your veterinarian. People coping with death will often say things that they do not really mean, perhaps hurting those whom they do not mean to hurt. You may feel guilty or blame others for not recognizing the illness earlier, for not doing something sooner, for not being able to afford other types of or further treatment, or for being careless and allowing the horse to be injured.

Depression is also part of the range of emotions experienced after the death of a special animal. The tears flow, there are knots in your stomach, and you are drained of all your energy. Day-to-day tasks can seem impossible to perform. Sometimes you may even ask yourself if you can go on without your horse. The answer is yes, but there are times when special assistance may be helpful in dealing with your loss.

Eventually, you will come to terms with your feelings. You can begin to resolve and accept your horse’s death. Even when you have reached resolution and acceptance, feelings of anger, denial, guilt, and depression may reappear. If this does happen, these feelings will usually be less intense, and with time will be replaced with fond memories.

Although the stages of grief apply fairly universally, grieving is always a personal process. Some people take longer than others to come to terms with denial, anger, guilt, and depression, and each loss is different. If you understand that these are normal reactions, you will be better prepared to cope with your feelings and to help others face theirs. Family members should be reassured that sorrow and grief are normal and natural responses to death.

They may not understand Sometimes well-meaning family and friends may not realize how important your horse was to you or the intensity of your grief. Comments they make may seem cruel and uncaring. Be honest with yourself and others about how you feel. If despair mounts, talk to someone who will listen to your feelings about the loss of your horse. Talk about your sorrow, but also the fun times you and the horse spent together, the activities you enjoyed, and the memories that are meaningful.

The hurt is so deep If you or a family member have great difficulty in accepting your horse’s death and cannot resolve feelings of grief and sorrow, you may want to discuss these feelings with a person who is trained to understand the grieving process. Your veterinarian certainly understands the relationship you have lost and may be able to suggest support groups and helplines, grief counselors, clergymen, social workers, physicians, or psychologists who can help. 

Your veterinarian understands the relationship you have lost

Perhaps the kindest thing you can do for a horse that is extremely ill, severely injured, lame, or dangerous is to have your veterinarian induce its death quickly and humanely through euthanasia. Your decision to have your horse euthanatized is a serious one, and is seldom easy to make.

What should I do?
Your relationship with your horse is special and may be different with each horse you have. When you acquired your horse, you assumed responsibility for its health
and welfare. Owners are sometimes faced with making life-or-death decisions for their animals. Such a decision may become necessary for the welfare of your horse
and your family. Although a personal decision, it need not be a solitary one. Your veterinarian and your family and close friends
can help you make the right decision. Consider not only what is best for your horse, but also what is best for you and your family. Quality of life is important for
horses and people alike.

How will I know when?
If your horse can no longer experience the things it once enjoyed, cannot respond to you in its usual ways, appears to be experiencing
more pain than pleasure, is terminally ill or critically injured, or if the financial or emotional cost of treatment is beyond your means, you may need to consider
euthanasia. Your veterinarian is best qualified to examine and evaluate your horse’s condition and to discuss with you potential disabilities and long-term problems.
Because your veterinarian cannot make the euthanasia decision for you, you need to understand your horse’s condition. If you do not understand the diagnosis or the
implications for your horse’s future, ask to have them explained again. Rarely will the situation require an immediate decision and usually you will have some time
to review the facts before making one. Once the decision for euthanasia has been made, you may wish to discuss the final disposition
of your horse’s body with your veterinarian and your family. Your veterinarian can provide information about burial, removal, cremation, and other alternatives.

What if the horse is healthy?
If your horse has become dangerous, unmanageable, unserviceable, or difficult to maintain, euthanasia may be necessary. Some undesirable and abnormal behavior
can be modified, so it is important to discuss these situations with your veterinarian. Economic, emotional, and space limitations may also force an owner to consider
euthanasia for a horse if a suitable home cannot be found. Discussing all possible alternatives with friends, family, and your veterinarian will help you feel more comfortable with your decision.

How do I tell my family?
Family members may be aware of the horse’s problems. You should review the information you have received from your veterinarian with them. Long-term medical care can be a burden that you and your family may be unable to bear emotionally or financially, and this should be discussed openly and honestly. Encourage family members to express their thoughts and feelings. Even if you have reached a decision, it is important that family members, especially
children, have their thoughts and feelings considered. Children have special relationships with animals. Excluding or protecting children from this decision making process because they are thought to be too young to understand may only complicate and prolong their grief process. Children respect straightforward, truthful, and simple answers. If they are prepared adequately, children usually are able to accept an animal’s death.

Your veterinarian and your family and close friends can help you make the right decision.

Should I get another horse?
The death of a horse can upset you emotionally, especially when euthanasia is involved. Some people may feel they would never want to own another horse. For others, a new horse may help them recover from the loss more quickly. Just as grief is a personal experience, the decision of when, if ever, to bring a new horse into your life is a personal one. If a family member is having difficulty accepting the horse’s death, getting a new horse before that person has resolved his or her grief may imply that the life of the deceased animal was unworthy of the grief that is still being felt. Family members should agree on the appropriate time to acquire a new horse. Although you can never replace the horse you lost, you can obtain another to share your life.

Remembering your horse Death is part of the lifecycle.

It cannot be avoided, but understanding and compassion can help you, your family, and your friends manage the grief associated with it. Try to recall and treasure the good times you spent with your horse. You may also wish to establish a memorial of some type or contribute to a charity in honor of your horse. 

How can I say goodbye?
Saying goodbye is an important step in managing the natural and healthy feelings of grief, sorrow, and loss. Your horse is an important part of your life, and it is natural to feel you are losing a friend or companion, because you are.  Once the euthanasia decision has been made, you and other family members may want to say goodbye to your horse. Spending some special time with your horse may be appropriate. Family members may want to be alone with the horse. Once all the necessary information is available and the decision has been made, it is best not
to wait too long before having your horse euthanatized. Farewells are always difficult.

Will it be painless?
When the horse is euthanatized, death will be quick and painless. If the horse is standing when the death-inducing drug is given, the horse will become unconscious and unable to sense fear or pain while still standing. After the horse has fallen to the ground, unconscious, death will ensue.

How can I face the loss?
After your horse has died, it is natural and normal to feel grief and sorrow. For some people, spending some time with the horse after euthanasia is helpful. The grieving process includes accepting the reality of your loss, accepting that the loss and accompanying feelings are painful, and adjusting to your new life that no longer includes your horse. By understanding the grieving process, you will be better prepared to manage your grief and to help others in the family who share this loss.  Even if you have reached a decision, it is important that family members, especially children, have their thoughts and feelings considered.  By understanding the grieving process, you will be better prepared to manage your grief and to help others in the family who share this loss.

American Veterinary Medical Association
1931 N. Meacham Road
Schaumburg, IL 60173
www.avma.org
For more information about animals, visit
www.avma.org/careforanimals/
For more information about equine veterinarians,
visit www.aaep.org
The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA)
is the largest veterinary medical organization in the world. The association’s more than 72,000
member veterinarians protect the health of animals and people through their work in clinical practice, public health, agriculture, academia, research, the military, government and industry.

April 2008 Contact: Sally J. Baker, APR
Horse Health Article sbaker@aaep.org

Learn to Recognize Your Horse’s Dental Problems

Horses with dental problems may show obvious signs, such as pain or irritation, or they may show no noticeable signs at all. This is because some horses simply adapt to their discomfort. For this reason, regular dental examinations, at least annually, are essential to your horse’s health.

It is important to catch dental problems early. If a horse starts behaving abnormally, dental problems should be considered as a potential cause. Waiting too long may increase the difficulty of remedying certain conditions or may even make remedy impossible. According to the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP), the following indicators of dental problems will help you know when to seek veterinary attention for your horse:

1. Loss of feed from mouth while eating, difficulty with chewing, or excessive salivation.
2. Loss of body condition.
3. Large or undigested feed particles (long stems or whole grain) in manure.
4. Head tilting or tossing, bit chewing, tongue lolling, fighting the bit or resisting bridling.
5. Poor performance, such as lugging on the bridle, failing to turn or stop, even bucking.
6. Foul odor from mouth or nostrils, or traces of blood from the mouth.
7. Nasal discharge or swelling of the face, jaw or mouth tissues.

Oral exams should be an essential part of an annual physical examination by a veterinarian. Every dental exam provides the opportunity to perform routine preventative dental maintenance. Mature horses should get a thorough dental exam at least once a year, and horses 2 – 5 years old should be examined twice yearly.

For more information about proper dental care, ask your equine veterinarian for “Dental Care: The Importance of Maintaining the Health of Your Horse’s Mouth,” a brochure provided by the AAEP in conjunction with Educational Partner Bayer Healthcare – Animal Health Division. Additional information is available on the AAEP’s Web site at www.aaep.org/horseowner.

The American Association of Equine Practitioners, headquartered in Lexington, Ky., was founded in 1954 as a non-profit organization dedicated to the health and welfare of the horse. Currently, the AAEP reaches more than 5 million horse owners through its over 9,000 members worldwide and is actively involved in ethics issues, practice management, research and continuing education in the equine veterinary profession and horse industry.

Permission for reprint is granted with attribution given to the American Association of Equine Practitioners.

Grooming Tips 

     Fescue is very common grass and is fine for horses. It can cause very serious problems with pregnant mares. Pregnant mares should not be allowed to eat Fescue Grass or hay with Fescue in it in the last 30 to 60 days of pregnancy, as it can cause the placenta to thicken so much that the foal can not brake the sack and will suffocate or it can cause a mare to not have milk.