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Parts of the Saddle
A saddle should comfortably clear a horse’s withers, allow for free movement of the shoulders, be the proper length and shape for its back, and be well balanced to provide good weight distribution. That's proper saddle fit.
If you ride horses of different breeds or significantly different sizes, then you'll need to invest in multiple saddles. Keep in mind a horse’s conformation changes throughout its life, and even throughout the year as their exercise level and nutrition levels change. Buying a saddle to precisely fit a horse at a moment in time often results in a poorly fitting saddle at a later date, use caution and thought in your choices.
So before you study all the new technology, and articles trying to convince you that their way is the only way take a step back and think about cowboys that make their living in their saddle. They don't have a different saddle for every horse, they buy a good quality saddle that will fit the majority of the horses they ride and only rarely do they have saddle fit issues.
What's the right saddle seat size for you? Well, that depends. Not the answer you wanted to hear, right? Let's explain why this seemingly simple question isn't so simple.
First, let's start with some general rules of thumb for proper western saddle fit for the rider:
- Keep in mind that western saddle seat size refers to rider fit and has nothing to do with how the saddle fits the horse
- There should be approximately four inches between the front of your body and the forks or swells
- Your rump should rest on the base of the cantle, but should not be pressed against the back of the cantle.
- Some prefer a tighter fit, some looser. In general, it's better to have a saddle a smidge too big than a smidge too small.
All western saddles come with a published seat size. Seat size simply measures the distance from the base of the horn to the top middle of the cantle. This distance is then expressed as a size in half-inch increments from 12 inches to 17 inches. The following will give you a very general idea of saddle sizes:
- Youth: 12"-13" less than 70 lbs
- Small Adult: 14" 70 to 110lbs
- Average Adult: 15" 110 to 135lbs
- Average Mature Woman 15 1/2" 135 to 160lbs
- Large Adult most men: 16" 160 to 220lbs to 16 1/2" 220 to 240lbs
- Extra Large Adult: 17" 240lbs or larger
With a published saddle seat size, choosing the right size saddle would seem to be pretty straightforward. In reality seat size is just one factor determining the fit of a western saddle. Sit in the same size of a variety of different styles and brands of saddles and you'll find significant differences in the fit. You might find that a 14 1/2" Circle Y barrel racing saddle fits well but that you need a 15" in a Bandelaro reining saddle. The shape of your body will also be a factor in the style of saddle that is comfortable for you.
Why the differences? There are a number of measurements in addition to seat size that impact the fit of a western saddle. These include:
- Seat Depth - Some saddles have deep seats designed to keep you in place during extreme activity and others have shallower seats to allow for more movement.
- Seat Slope - The seat angles from the handhold back towards the cantle and the slope can range from relatively flat to steep.
- Cantle Slope - The cantle can be high and straight or have a slope that is mild or steep.
- Cantle Dish - The cantle can be flat or have a recess or dish in the front side that can be an inch or more in depth.
- Fork Style - There are a wide range of fork styles that can range from wide swells to slick fork saddles with barely any swell.
- Fork Angle - Forks can be straight or angle away from the rider.
Each of these features can impact the way a saddle fits a rider. Unfortunately, none of these other measurements are standardized or published in a saddle's measurements. So, when shopping for a western saddle, the only way to truly determine fit is to sit in each saddle. Only then will you know if the saddle is a good fit for you.
Seat
The size of the seat is not the only important decision you will have to make when purchasing a saddle. The type of seat covering you choose for your saddle can have a big impact in the feel of your saddle. Rough out or suede seat will allow for a better grip for beginning riders, while some more accomplished riders may prefer the feel of a slick seat. When you sit in you saddle make sure the stirrups do not hang off the bars to far forward or back. Some lower priced saddles can have problems with this, be aware.
Tree
The job of the tree is to distribute the weight of the rider over the horses back. The best trees are made of wood and covered with rawhide. Synthetic trees are made of Ralide which is a pressed in a mold. While synthetic are very durable they tend to be very rigid and can be difficult for some horses to tolerate. In recent years flexable trees have been developed and some folks get along alright with them for cost effective, occasional light riding. But be very careful not to fall into a sales pitch and buy something that is not right for you and hard on your horse.
Parts of the Tree
Bars- Two thin long shaped pieces of wood or ralide that actually rest along each side of your horses back from the withers to the loin and distribute the weight of the rider. The Fork- An arch shaped piece of wood or ralide that joins the bars together in the front over the withers.
The Cantle- The curved piece of wood or ralide that forms the back of the seat and joins the bars together in the back over the front of the loin.
The Horn- The upright form that comes out of the top of the forks.
The Gullet- The bottom portion of the arch on the forks that determines the amount of clearance over the withers.
The Gullet Groove- the channel that allows clearance of the spine.
To distribute weight evenly the entire length of the bars must be in contact with the horses back. The shape of the bars effects how the saddle fits the horse. There are three names used for the basic shapes of bars. The amount of the curve applyied to each is what makes your saddle fit well or poorly.
A -Rocker- The curve on the bottom of the tree bars.
B -Twist- The curve from the front to the back of each side of the bars.
C & D -Flare- The curve at the front and the back ends of the bars
The gullet channel that runs down the center of the bottom of the saddle must be wide enough to keep the pressure off the horses’ spine.
Tree Construction
Saddle trees are traditionally made of wood, which is how they came to be called "trees." Usually softer woods are chosen for their flexibility - Ponderosa Pine, Beachwood, Ash, Cottonwood, Douglas Fir. Once assembled, a covering is stretched wet over the tree and then allowed to dry and shrink, further strengthening the tree. Rawhide covering is the traditional material, with bullhide, the heaviest weight of rawhide, the top of the line. Lesser quality coverings include canvas, cheesecloth, and poorer quality hides. New fiberglass coatings are starting to win over some saddlemakers. After the covering is dry, a final coat of varnish is applied to seal the rawhide. The result is an exceptionally strong tree that still retains an amount of flexibility.
A bullhide-covered wood tree is considered by saddle makers to be the finest saddle tree construction. It is also the most expensive tree construction. With new synthetic materials appearing, saddle trees can now be built for about 25% of the cost of wood trees. As a result, today, the majority of manufactured saddles are built with synthetic trees. Synthetic trees are built of plastic or fiberglass in a mold process and vary significantly in their quality. Ralide, is considered to be a suitably strong material, and the best of the synthetics. Synthetic trees have several other limitations. They aren't as flexible as wood trees. Since they're made with molds, there is little ability for any variation, resulting in cookie-cutter saddles. And, the synthetic materials also don't seem to be able to hold the nails and screws used in assembly as well as wood, making them less durable.
There is certainly a place for synthetic materials in saddle trees. They're appropriate for the casual rider who is very budget-minded. But, if you're looking to buy a quality saddle that will last a lifetime and handle whatever you may run into, you'll choose a bullhide-covered wood tree.
Tree Types
It's probably surprising to discover that there aren't any industry standards for saddle tree measurements and terminology. Different tree makers measure trees differently and even call the same trees by different names. So, you may think you're talking apples to apples, only to find that saddlemaker A's definition of a Wade tree is different from Saddlemaker B's definition. It doesn't really pay to try to become a saddle tree expert. It's a game you can't win. Better to seek out the advice of knowledgeable horsemen and saddle makers to guide you through the process.
You'll hear names such as Wade, Buster Welch, Bowman or Association and know that each of those names only identifies the tree as having a particular style of fork.
There are some general categories for bar types based on gullet width, but there is little agreement as to the widths and the names of the categories. It can be very frustrating. You'll even see names flip-flopped among the categories making for a tremendous amount of confusion when you're saddle shopping. At the risk of causing further confusion and argument, I'll share the following categories and gullet widths from Richard L. Sherer's "Horseman's Handbook of Western Saddles." Please keep in mind that there is no standardization of these measurements or names.
- Regular Quarter Horse bars - gullet width: 5 3/4"
Semi-quarter horse bars - gullet width: 6"
Full quarter horse bars - gullet width: 6 1/4"-6 1/2" - Extra-wide quarter horse bars - gullet width: 6 3/4"-7"
- Arabian bars - gullet width: 6 1/4"-6 3/4" (has a flatter pitch than quarter horse bars)
Horn
Saddle horns come in many shapes and sizes depending on usage and preference. They are made of wood, steel, and brass and covered with rawhide. On roping and ranch saddles, you'll find an additional horn covering that protects the horn from the rigors of roping and provides a better grip for the rope. Horn wraps are made of a variety of materials including mulehide (a rough-out gray colored leather), rawhide or heavy latigo leather, and rubber - either black inner tube rubber or white Dura-Wrap rubber.
Horn styles vary by type of saddle. Options include height, cap diameter, cap shape, cap angle, and neck diameter. The horn is now a standard part of the western saddle, whether or not the saddle's used for roping. Over the years, a number of additional uses have been discovered for the saddle horn. It can be a handy hook to hang things on, a great spot to lean on when taking a rest, and, as so many have discovered, a security handle when the ride gets rough. The type of horn you choose will also have an impact on the way you set you horse when grab the horn for security. The event you choose to participate in will dictate the type of horn you need.
The saddle skirts are the large pieces of heavy leather that attach to the underside of the saddle tree bars. The purposes of the skirts are:
- To protect the horse from the bars
- To distribute the rider's weight over a wider surface area
- To protect the rider from the horse's sweat
Skirts are made out of two pieces of heavy leather and are laced together in the back. They are attached to the bars with screws and nails, and held in place with the saddle strings or conchos.
There are three main shapes of skirts - round and square. The round skirt, sometimes called a California skirt after the state where it was most popular, lessens the bulk of the saddle.
The square skirt, often called a Texas skirt, is the more traditional style and provides more protection to the horse from heavy brush. Of late, Square skirts have increased in popularity with Reiners.
The Butterfly Skirt is round but covers more of the horses hips by dipping down on the curve. This type does require a large blanket.
On the underside of the skirts is a sheepskin lining. The sheepskin provides a soft layer between the horse and the saddle, but more importantly, provides a friction surface to keep the saddle blanket in place. Sheepskin can be either natural or synthetic. Natural sheepskin is thicker and more durable but attracts insects and rodents who love to munch on it. Synthetic sheepskin isn't as thick, but it's less expensive and won't be eaten.
On many skirts you'll find a Dee ring towards the front for connecting a breast collar. Some skirts will also have a "wear leather," a patch of an additional layer of leather, under the rigging Dee rings to protect the skirt from heavy use.
Key physical characteristics of the horse affecting saddle fit:
- Shape of the withers
Ideally, the withers of the horse are level with, or a little above, the highest point of the rump (or croup). Withers that are higher or lower than this would need special consideration when choosing a saddle. Horses with mutton withers are very difficult to fit a saddle on get help if you own a horse with this trait.
- Shape of the Back
A horse that has an overly narrow or, conversely, an overly flat back, can find certain saddles to be uncomfortable. A horse that’s back is “downhill,” with his rump higher than his withers, can end up with the saddle slipping forward causing soreness.
- Length of the back
Horses with shorter than average backs can find the saddle’s skirts digging into their backs, loins, and kidneys.
- Prominence of the shoulders
Large-shouldered horses can be constricted by an ill-fitting saddle, limiting movement and forcing the shoulders against the tree bars. Thin-shouldered horses can cause the saddle to ride forward onto the shoulder blades.
Saddle Fitting Guide
1. With the horse standing on level ground, place the saddle on its back at the withers, and slide it back into place. This is an important step. Some saddle fit problems aren't caused by a poorly fitting saddle, but rather by a saddle positioned poorly.
Saddles are designed to match the horse's anatomy when in their proper position. If the saddle is positioned in front of, or behind this position, it can cause physical problems for both the horse and rider. Proper saddle position will have the saddle placed on the horse's back so that the cinch falls about four inches behind the elbow. It's very common for riders to place the saddle too far forward, causing soreness, saddle sores and constricting the horse's movement, and also putting the rider out of position. A saddle placed too far back will place the rider's weight on the horse's loins, causing discomfort and impairing movement. These problems can be misinterpreted as a saddle fit issue, when the saddle is not to blame.
2. Check the clearance at the withers. You should be able to place 2 or more (no more than 4) stacked fingers between the withers and the gullet (with no saddle pad).
3. Check the shoulder clearance. You should be able to easily slip your hand between the fleece lining and the horses shoulder (with a saddle pad). Ideally, you should also be able to do this with a rider in the saddle.
4. Check the skirt fit. The skirt should follow the contour of the horse’s back and not extend past its loins.
Check the balance. Step back and view your horse from the side. The flat area of the seat should be level and the fork should not be higher than the cantle. When cinched, the back of the saddle shouldn’t rock up.
Be cautious when choosing your horse and check his conformation as his attitude and training.
Now where are we?
Is your head spinning from information overload?
Well, here's the good news. Saddle makers estimate that over 80% of today's horses have conformation that will comfortably fit them in either a standard semi-quarter horse or full-quarter horse tree. For most buyers, fit won't be an issue. The bigger challenge will be making sure you choose a saddle with a high quality tree, made of good leather, that fits you.
You should now be armed with enough information to ask the right questions. And when all else fails, price will be a very good indication of quality.